Flex Hex Key Set
I'm looking for the same thing. I found 3/32 and larger here:But no where else. Resurrecting the thread in the hope that someone recognizes the maker from the McMaster image.Nearly every one I have ever run into needed only a long - sometimes VERY long - straight hex, and.aligning the fastener with a hole or slot that let it reach in and do the do.The few exceptions were GIVEN such an access hole. Pluggable or otherwise. BFBI rules.Life is too damned short to perpetuate some other fool's shortsightedness at the cost of my wasted time and skunt knuckles.Bill. Nearly every one I have ever run into needed only a long - sometimes VERY long - straight hex, and.aligning the fastener with a hole or slot that let it reach in and do the do.The few exceptions were GIVEN such an access hole. Pluggable or otherwise.
BFBI rules.Life is too damned short to perpetuate some other fool's shortsightedness at the cost of my wasted time and skunt knuckles.BillIt's my error in making the engine for my 1/8 scale Shay locomotive. On one cylinder I made the gland retainer screws fore and aft instead of on the sides (as the cylinder presents itself when mounted). Easy enough to access when you're assembling the engine, a bit harder when assembled and everything is in the way including the steam chest, valve rod, eccentric straps, etc.Here's a shot of the Shay when I did a little test fire before taking it to Durango for a run:The engine is left of the big brass whistle.Here's the access to the gland retainer:The screw is parallel to the piston rod visible on the left, about halfway between the rod and guide wall. The brass gland retainer is on top of the crosshead at the bottom of the piston rod (it's not really a gland in there as it's a quad-ring and not packing, but the terms remain). That little hex key is a 1/16 put into some 3/16 hex stock in an effort to reach the screw.I could pull the engine, pull the cylinder after unmaking all the cylinder cocks and stripping the valves, pull the cylinder standard and get to it with a long hex key. But really finding another way that didn't involve 4 hours was the way I preferred to go. Next time I have it apart (which will be the first time) I'll correct the screw locations.
First picture is two around the corner drivers for 1/4 hex shank bits.Second picture is an antique dental handpiece for a belt drive machine. These used to be used in patients' mouths and are still found in dental labs. The bit has an RA (right angle) shank, which is 3/32 round with a groove and a flat on the end. The knurled pulley can be turned by hand. A 3/32 drill blank can have one end ground to 1/16 hex and the other end ground with the driving flat. The groove is only needed to keep the bit from accidentally falling out.
I think this thing might be skinny enough to do the Shay job. And the handpiece is very cheap.Larry.
This top quality T-handle metric hex key wrench set offers strength, style and precision. Each wrench is constructed of premium chrome vanadium steel for durability and precise fit into SAE hex head fasteners.Ergonomic T-handles offer comfort, speed and precise control when loosening or tightening fasteners.10 hex key wrenches are neatly organized in the included steel holder you can mount to a bench or wall.Stylish and affordable, Powerbuilt products meet or exceed ANSI standards. Dependable enough to last a lifetime. Includes 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 4.5mm, 5mm, 5.5mm, 6mm, 8mm and 10mm T-Handle hex key wrenches.
T-handle Hex Key Set
Ball end works at angles up to 25 degrees. Ergonomic T-handles offer comfort, speed and control. Premium chrome vanadium steel construction. Handy bench top wrench rack. Affordable quality.
Strong and dependable enough to last a lifetime.